The issue is: hems tend to flare outward on tunics, skirts, and gowns. That makes the outside edge slightly longer around than further up the fabric. Now, if you have trim that is slightly curved to match your hem line, you're all set to go. But all the trim I've come across is straight, not curved.
So, first thing I do is sew down the edge of the trim that is closest to the hem.
That gives a nice smooth edge by the hem, but there is excess trim buckling up on the other side. Now, you can deal with the excess fabric by folding that over, making tucks as you go around. However, somewhere along the line I learned a trick.
Here you can see the result. The left side is the before, and the right side is the after. The steaming and pressing shrinks up the trim, sucking in that extra fabric. Since you already sewed down the outside edge, that stays the appropriate length. You've just made curved trim.
Pin down your edge, and sew that sucker down. You may still have to take some pleats and tucks, depending on the severity of your curve, but there won't be nearly as much fiddling needed as you might have had to do without the steam trick.
See? All stitched into place, nice and neat.
Cool trick. Now I just have to remember it for the next time I am in this situation.
ReplyDeleteWhat a great tip! It's easy to see how well it works in your photos. I'll have to share with my mother, as she is the talented sewer in our family.
ReplyDeleteGlad I could help! I forget where I picked that one up, but it sure makes costuming easier.
ReplyDeleteHi, I just stumbled across your post, great tip and just what I was looking for. I do have a question about how you handle the ribbon joint. Do you sew the ends together and press the ribbon seam open? Reason being that joint will have double layer to ease and manipulate, how do you 'hide the bulk and stop one of the layers jutting out? Thanks in advance.
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