Tutorial: Warping the medieval box loom

Several years ago, I bought a medieval style box loom at Estrella War, a local event for the historical recreation group that I was active in at the time. I've since moved on to other activities, and the loom has been sitting unused. Poor little thing! But I found someone who is still active in the historical community, and I'll be passing the loom on to her this week. In preparation for that, I warped up the loom one more time, and took pictures of the process so she could see how I did it. That should give her a starting point for her own explorations.

So... Usually I use a warping board or mill to measure out my warp, but I'm pretty sure she doesn't have one of those. So I fell back on the old school method of setting up wood clamps to give me three uprights. I put two down at one end of the table to make my figure 8 cross around, and one down at the other end to measure out the length.

 I'm using cotton crochet thread here. Start by tying on to the outside of the two clamps.

 Bring your yarn around one side of the next clamp, to start your figure 8.

 Bring your thread down to the far end, and around that upright.

  Come back up to the two clamps (Without crossing your thread between the figure 8 clamps and the far end, like I did here. I flipped it around after the picture.), and make the other arm of your figure 8. This gives you your cross, which will keep the threads in order for you.

 When you want to change colors, simply cut your working thread and tie on a new one.

When you are done measuring out your warp, tie your last thread off to the upright.

 Now, take 5 lengths of thread and tie bows around the threading cross. One on each arm of the figure 8, and one through the openings of the 8 right around the intersection. This will keep the cross intact until you are ready to use it.

 If your warp is long, I also recommend tying a choke tie around the length of the warp, every few feet. This will keep things from tangling.

 Ok, go down to the far end away from the cross, and lift your warp off of the upright.

 From that far end, chain your warp up. Again, this will keep things from tangling.

 Reach your hand through the loop, and grab the warp and pull it through, making another loop. Keep doing this. It is kind of like crochet.

Now you have your warp, and it is time to thread the rigid heddle. I use some binder clips to make a stand for the heddle.

 Take your threading cross in your hand like so. Your fingers are going to hold that cross for you.

 Remove the black ties, and snip open the beginning loop.

 You can fold your bottom two fingers down to keep things stable.

 Now, you can pick your threads up one by one, in the order that you warped them up.

 I made a threading hook of bent wire, and use that to pull the first thread through the hole.

 The next thread goes in the slot next to that hole.

 Repeat, hole then slot then hole then slot then....Then check your work and make sure that you didn't skip any like I did. If you do, move them over into the right spot one by one.

 When your heddle is threaded, it will look something like this.

 Now, tie the cut ends around the apron rod at one end of the loom.

 Bring your warp up and over the back beam, and down to the front end of the loom.

 Release the brake on the back beam, so it will turn.

 Hold onto the warp at the front end of the loom, to give it tension during the warping process. (I turned the loom around for working. The front of the loom is on the left in the picture now. No big deal, I just didn't want to confuse you.)

 Move your heddle down to the back end of the loom, so the warp will spread evenly as you wind it on.

 Wind your warp onto the back beam. Insert strips of paper as you go along, to prevent the threads from burrowing down into the previous layers as you go along. If they do, they will end up different lengths, and will give you tension problems as you weave. Try to keep your warp centered as you wind on, so the threads don't slip off the sides of the paper. (Oops. I did that one too.)

 When the warp is all wound on, snip the end loop and tie on to the front apron rod, up and over the front beam.

 Re-engage the brakes, and wind enough to put tension on the threads.

 Now you're ready to weave! You create the weaving sheds (the opening for your weft thread) by lifting up on the heddle for one...

 ...and pushing down on the heddle for the other.

 Weave your header, and you are ready to go! To advance your warp, release the back brake, crank it forward, and re-engage the brake.

Yarn dyeing, triloom weaving, and studio arranging

Well, I've got sausage and potatoes cooking upstairs, and yarn cooking downstairs. As long as I don't mix them, I should be ok! This is Platinum sock yarn from Wool2Dye4, that I'm dyeing with Jacquard acid dyes in my crock pot. The colors look all sorts of tasty, but I think I should eat this with my eyes, and stick to my potatoes for dinner, no?

So, dinner, watch the sunset...

....and then get back to weaving, I think. I just finished this grey and pink triloom shawl, and have another of the black and jewel tones on the loom now.

I did rearrange my studio a bit between that picture and this next one.

I'm only using one of my floor looms right now, so I folded the dobby loom against the wall and moved my triangle loom over to that corner. That means I can set up the antique sock knitting machine over where it used to be. So, I have 4 work stations currently: the floor loom, the triangle loom, the sock knitting machine, and the work bench where I have the dye station currently up. That ought to keep me busy!!

I want a bigger studio. I always want a bigger studio, no matter how much room I have. But I'm making better use of the space that I have, and that is a good thing.

Shawls, carding wool, and setting a crafting schedule

I finished up this shawl today! It is made of my new favorite yarn for my triloom: Lion Brand Homespun Thick and Quick. This particular colorway was their Tartan Stripes. The yarn works up soft and fluffy and cuddly, and I'm really pleased with it. And I love the self striping yarn that does the color work for me. Anyway, this beauty heads out into the mail tomorrow for its new home.

I've got some felted juggling balls heading out tomorrow too, which means my stock of those is getting low. Time to make some more! Especially with the holidays coming up, they are a good seller for gifts. I like to use a more inexpensive wool at the core of the balls, and then cover that with the more expensive colored wool. I had a bunch of roving tag ends from the last batch of mill end stuff I got, and it wasn't really in a form that was usable to me. Luckily, I have hand carders, and know how to use them. A few hours of work later, and the mish mash on the right all turned into the lovely fluff bits on the left. Satisfying.

In other bits, I'm trying to set a more regular studio time for myself. I work in my own home, and it is so easy to let housework, or kids calling, or the husbands home to hang out with, or the internet (Facebook is my downfall) luring me into spending time looking at craft things instead of making craft things, or...or.... My art work was taking a back seat to just about everything else in my life. I figured I would fit in some fiber time after the busy times of the day, but then the evenings would be taken up with other things until I just wanted mental down time. As a result, very little was actually getting done.

So, I am a serious night owl. I love being up until 4 or 5 am (yes, am as in morning), and then sleeping until noon or 1 pm. But, by doing so, I fell into the pattern I just outlined. So, for the last few weeks I started moving my bed time back to 2 or 3 am, and setting my alarm for 8 hours after that. And, I've told everyone that I've set aside the hours of noon to 4 as my studio time.

So far? I'm easing into it. Facebook is still a danger. And Twitter. And Pintrest. And YouTube with the craft tutorials. (I feel kind of virtuous watching those, because I'm learning stuff. But I'm not doing stuff, so it is mixed there.) But, for the last bit I've actually gotten things done. Two triloom shawls, some experimentation with finding yarns for the sock loom, and I've got a warp painted project on the floor loom. Juggling balls are on tap for tomorrow, and I have dye on the way for the next warp painted ruanas. Now, if I can keep this momentum, and really form a habit of taking time for the creation! It is so easy to get in my own way...

Yarn review: Franklin sock yarn

Well, that didn't work as well as I hoped. I was experimenting with Franklin sock yarn from Webs. It dyed up beautifully! But it is a little thick for my antique knitting machine. And, when I got a sock made up, it felt kind of dry and crunchy to the touch. I think this sock yarn is a little coarse for my sock making needs.

Come to think of it though, I think this yarn will be beautiful for making coiled basketry, where the feel against the skin won't matter as much. It seems nice and sturdy, and should hold up nicely for that use. (This picture is from a different brand of yarn, but you get the idea.)

Yup. Need to keep experimenting!